A wave will be each a dream and a nightmare. In January 2019, at Pipeline, on Oahu’s North Shore, 42-year-old surfer Kohl Christensen caught a perfect swell (seen right here)—the kind of wave that “sums up why we surf,” because the legendary Kelly Slater later put it.
A surfer can spend years within the water and by no means get a trip like that, recollects Christensen, who lives down the highway from the break. “Then, hastily, it’s virtually just like the wave involves you.”
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The factor is, a wave can flip lethal simply as shortly.
In December, lower than a yr after this photograph was taken, Christensen was out at Pipeline once more. He pulled right into a tube however worn out, flying headfirst into the water and cracking his head on a reef. Lifeguards rushed the unconscious surfer to a hospital, the place he underwent mind surgical procedure. He expects to make a full restoration and hasn’t misplaced the need to go after monster surf.
That stated, “Now I really feel completely at peace simply hanging out with my daughters and watching the waves. I by no means felt that manner earlier than. I by no means felt that calm.”
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